Who says fine dining can’t start before sunrise? That’s the bold question posed by Pavyllon at the Four Seasons London, which recently launched the city’s first Michelin-starred breakfast. For early birds like myself—those of us who thrive on pre-dawn productivity, fueled by caffeine and Post-it notes—this is a game-changer. Imagine indulging in a £70, five-course tasting menu at a counter in a serene, pastel-hued dining room as the world slumbers on. But here’s where it gets controversial: securing a booking is no small feat. If you’re not one of the lucky few, you can still enjoy nearly identical dishes from the regular breakfast menu, albeit without the fanfare. But is the exclusivity worth it? Let the debate begin in the comments.
Chef Yannick Alléno is doing early risers a solid by corralling us into one space and distracting us with decadent dishes like lobster flatbread and a bespoke ‘amuse juice.’ Let’s face it: we 5am Club members are a peculiar breed. Have you ever endured my 5:46am WhatsApp voice notes or the clatter of my walking desk at dawn? We’re a menace to society’s sleep schedules. From a business perspective, though, offering sleep-averse diners Michelin-starred chia puddings is sheer genius. Now, we can network with fellow go-getters over salted maple pancakes and elevated French toast. But does fine dining really need to wait until lunch? With Gen Z ditching late-night parties for early mornings, could the posh breakfast become the new main event?
Practically speaking, who staffs these ultra-luxe breakfasts? The Four Seasons has it down to an art, with a polished brigade in full regalia by 7:45am. My coat is whisked away, my handbag given a stool, and my lapsang souchong and ‘orchard juice’ appear seamlessly. A glossy pain au chocolat arrives as an opener—delightful, though not life-altering, with a restrained yet elegant chocolate filling and a jar of Maison Laurino jam.
By 8am, I’m dining alongside a media-famous investor savoring eggs royale—heroically runny, perched on a flawless English muffin with hollandaise so perfect it could be art. I usually avoid poached eggs at breakfast (they’re always cold), but here, they’re an exception. Benedict or florentine options are available, with optional 5g caviar for £25 extra.
Nearby, a Saudi family enjoys exotic mango chia pudding, while chefs guide an influencer through a chicken samosa topped with a fried egg and vermicelli. It’s a curious dish—reminiscent of Malaysian mee goreng but perhaps too hearty for dawn. The coconut chia pudding, however, is a fruity delight, though it’s essentially gourmet frogspawn.
The undisputed star? The French toast. A humble slice of grilled brioche arrives, topped with toasted hazelnuts, but one bite reveals a flavor explosion—vanilla-infused custard encased in a perilously thin, crunchy crust. Paired with citrus-infused whipped cream (unnecessary, but appreciated), it’s a masterpiece.
Let’s be honest: this breakfast is carb-heavy, ultra-indulgent, and the antithesis of a productive day. By the time the French toast arrived, I was plotting a return to bed. Tasting menu guests even leave with a baked treat for elevenses—because why not?
While the Four Seasons may not have invented early luxury dining—Hide and Cédric Grolet at the Berkeley are equally impressive—the posh power breakfast is undeniably trending. My lingering question: how do they find staff willing to deliver fine dining service and ingredient banter at 6am? It takes a special kind of server to stay in character at such an ungodly hour.
Three cheers for the 5am Club! We may be bright-eyed, bushy-tailed, and slightly obnoxious, but we’re redefining hospitality. Is the early-morning fine dining trend here to stay, or just a passing fad? Share your thoughts below!
Pavyllon, Four Seasons Hotel, Hamilton Place, Park Lane, London W1, 020-7319 5200. Open daily, 6:30–10:30am (7am Sundays); tasting menu Saturdays & Sundays only. From £40 per person; tasting menu £70 for five courses with tea/coffee, plus extras.
