A beloved Denver institution is on the brink of disappearing, and it’s not just another casualty of gentrification—it’s a story of resilience, family legacy, and the fight to survive against all odds. La Abeja, a 25-year-old Mexican eatery known for its mouthwatering breakfast burritos, is teetering on the edge due to the ongoing BRT construction on Colfax Avenue. But here’s where it gets heartbreaking: this isn’t just a restaurant; it’s a piece of Denver’s soul, a place where generations of families have worked, cooked, and shared their heritage. And this is the part most people miss—La Abeja isn’t just struggling; it’s a symbol of what’s at stake when progress leaves small, immigrant-owned businesses in the dust.
For Denverites, La Abeja is more than a spot to grab a $9.99 breakfast burrito (though those smothered in green chile and stuffed with eggs, potatoes, and chorizo are legendary). It’s a no-frills haven where the recipes are passed down through generations, not written down but carried in memory. Eva Murillo, whose parents now own the restaurant, shares, ‘My mom created the entire menu. All the recipes are hers. She just knows them.’ This family-run gem has been a staple since it started as a modest Mexican bakery, evolving into the breakfast-and-lunch hotspot it is today. But now, the very streets that once welcomed it are tearing it apart.
The construction on Colfax has already claimed several local favorites—Middleman, Q House, and Machete, to name a few. Is La Abeja next? The numbers tell a grim story. At its peak, the restaurant brought in up to $2,000 a day. Now, it sometimes makes as little as $50. ‘People don’t know how to find us,’ Murillo laments. ‘There’s no parking, streets are closed, and customers are frustrated.’ Despite receiving a grant from Denver’s Business Impact Opportunity Fund, the support hasn’t been enough to offset the losses. And communication from the construction team? Sparse at best.
But here’s the controversial part: Is Denver’s push for modernization worth sacrificing the very businesses that give the city its character? While the East Colfax Bus Rapid Transit project promises improved transportation, it’s leaving behind a trail of shuttered doors and broken dreams. Murillo’s parents now work seven days a week, supported by just one part-time employee. They’ve cut hours, experimented with specials, and done everything they can to keep the doors open. But how long can they hold on?
La Abeja’s story isn’t just about burritos or construction delays—it’s about the human cost of progress. It’s about a family pouring their savings into a dream, only to face a pandemic and then a construction nightmare. It’s about a community losing its flavor, one closure at a time. So, here’s the question: What are we willing to sacrifice in the name of development? And more importantly, how can we support the small businesses that make our cities unique?
If you’ve ever savored La Abeja’s carnitas torta (Murillo’s personal favorite) or their weekend menudo, you know what’s at risk. ‘The food is amazing,’ Murillo says. ‘It can be a little scary to walk down Colfax, but I think people should experience this local, small, immigrant-owned business.’ La Abeja is open daily from 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. at 508 East Colfax Avenue. Will you be part of their story? Or will this be another chapter in Denver’s loss of local treasures? The choice is yours.
